From: Rob
Hi again Jessica, Hope you can once again help. I wrote you about a month ago re an Arab gelding that three people are leasing, myself being one of the three. I was seeking a solution to his tossing his head and setting it against the bit. Although not all of your suggestions were able to be employed (ie the horse couldn't be sent away for training and the riders out onto another horse - this horse earns his keep), others have prooven very useful. I showed your reply to my questions to the horses' owner and it prompted her to ask the other kids to ride in snaffle bits instead of the previously more severe pelhams and curb style bits. Anyways, since your advice is sound, I thought I'd ask another question.
When this horse is asked to change gaits walk to trot or trot to canter, he throws his head. I thought this might be in response to too tight a rein, so I have lengthened the rein. . . I thought this might be in response to too loose a rein not supporting him enough, so I have tried tightening the reins. I am careful to try and remain balanced during the transition and ask for the canter from a sitting trot only. He is a lazy horse that requires a lot of leg and coaxing, frequently with light taps from the crop at the girth. He dosen't throw his head when being lunged, so I have surmised it is something I am doing while riding. He sometimes throws it while others ride him, sometimes not. He does it while being on the right lead and while travelling in both directions. What can I do?
As a second question, do you have any suggestions for motivating this lazy horse. While I realize that my thighs are not yet made of steel, they are quite strong. If he sets his mind that he dosen't want to break into a trot for example, if encouraged with increasingly stronger aids and eventually a whip, he will cat-hop and buck. I have consistently refused to accept this and ask again for the trot and eventually get there, but the fight is exhausting. Once in the trot, he seeks every opportunity to walk again. This is not a conditioning thing - he is quite fit as he is ridden every day, and the behavior will start at the beginning of a riding session when he is fresh.
One more question. You seem so devoted to answering our queries that you must have no time left to ride yourself. Or do you have a lap-top? (ie saddle top)!
Thanks though for taking the time. I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Lesley
Horses may throw their heads during transitions for several reasons. Let me list some of them, and you can judge whether any of these might apply to this horse.
Mouth discomfort
A poorly-fitting bit, teeth that need floating, or wolf teeth that need removing can cause the sort of discomfort that make a horse toss his head. The rider's hands can also elicit this response -- if the horse anticipates that he will either be dropped or grabbed during a transition.
Sore back
A saddle that doesn't fit well is a frequent cause of head tossing during transitions - - as the horse gathers itself and moves into another gait, a shoulder-pinching or wither-grinding saddle can cause annoyance, discomfort, or intense pain. Check your saddle fit -- and check it WITH A RIDER in the saddle, too! Be sure that it is positioned correctly, not too far forward where it might interfere with the horse's shoulder. And be sure that it doesn't touch your horse's spine at any point from withers to loin, WITH A RIDER in the saddle. If the saddle "bites" the horse whenever he lifts his back and moves forward energetically, he will quickly lose interest in moving forward energetically, and who can blame him? A poorly- fitting saddle, or one with a twisted tree, can also encourage a horse to slow down to a walk whenever he can -- and it can elicit bucking or other resistances at the canter. Check that your saddle tree is straight -- you might not believe it, but I see a LOT of warped saddles at clinics, especially those that have been used by many riders, or riders who mount from the ground.
Pinched skin under the girth
Part of your pre-ride routine should be pulling the horse's front legs forward, one at a time, after you fasten the girth but before you tighten it. A wrinkle under the girth can make a horse very uncomfortable, especially when you pull the girth tighter or when the horse moves out. You should be able to put your hand between the horse's elbow and the front edge of the girth -- this will also help ensure that your saddle is not too far forward.
Cramps in the neck muscles
Sometimes you will get a head-toss during a transition from a horse that has been ridden with its head and neck in the same position for too long (anything more than a few minutes) without being allowed to stretch forward and down. A transition often means more tension in the neck, even just for a moment, as the horse changes its gait and its balance, and if it needs some relief from tight neck muscles, it's likely to do one of two things: "root" the reins out of your hands, or toss its head in the air. Be sure to allow your horse to stretch regularly, and then you won't feel bad about asking him to move between gaits while maintaining a steady contact.
Sore back, stifle, hocks or lower legs
A horse with a sore back or sore hind legs will often resist moving into another gait, or flatten its back and trail its hind legs when you ask for a transition; when this happens, the head will automatically come up. Check your horse for soreness -- and have the vet go over him! It's not normal for a healthy, comfortable horse to be so unwilling to trot; something must be bothering him. At this point, I would suspect the saddle, because he is so much happier to cooperate on the longe.
Insufficient engagement at the previous gait
If you want a good walk-trot transition and a good trot, you must have a good walk before you ask for the transition. If you want a good trot-canter transition and a good canter, you must have a good trot before you ask for the transition. Your horse will NOT be able to move smoothly into a rounded trot if his walk is short and peggy, or loose and disjointed -- and he will not be able to move smoothly into a rounded canter if he is strung out and moving flat at the trot!
Laziness is another problem -- I'm never really sure what a "lazy" horse is! I've never met a truly lazy horse, just confused or tired or painful horses. Here, too, I would check the horse's physical condition first -- back, legs, feet, neck, mouth, teeth, overall condition and weight. If he's simply not energetic enough, a small increase in the protein in his diet might do the trick. Figure out how much feed he is getting, and what the protein % is, then ask your vet what change, if any, would be appropriate. Perhaps he's running on "regular" and needs "premium. "
I'm sure that your fitness level is quite good enough -- thighs of steel shouldn't be necessary! Riding is a matter of balance, not grip (except in moments of emergency!). Yes, there is 'grip' involved, but it isn't active, squeezing, effortful grip, it's FRICTION grip, which is another matter entirely. Try keeping your legs stretched as long as possible around the horse, with enough bend in the knee that your heels can easily remain the lowest point of your body. Post lightly, a little behind the motion, and RELAX your thighs and knees instead of tensing them. Let your weight sink into your heels each time you rise -- this will help your lower legs encourage your horse forward, without your having to make a conscious effort to push him on.
Find a song that you and the horse both like, and sing it while you trot. If you can keep the horse comfortable and cheerful during transitions and while he trots, he'll be much more willing (and able) to offer you the sort of transitions and trots that you want. Bucking, head-tossing, and such behaviours all take more energy than simply doing what you are asking him to do, so I would say that he isn't LAZY -- perhaps "unmotivated" would be a better word. Motivate him! First make sure that he is physically able to do what you want, and that his tack isn't getting in the way. Then motivate him by making it easy for him to do what's right, and then praising him when he does it -- keep every ride pleasant. Horses like to please, if they can do so without discomfort. . . . help this horse to please you.
Jessica
As for your last question -- riding is like any other sport: the more you coach, the less you play. And if you coach, teach, write, and speak. . . . let's just say that right now, my horses are convinced that they've returned to kindergarten, and their entire schedule consists of lunch and sandbox! They'll have a surprise in the late fall, when my travel schedule lets up. . .
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