From: Gale
Hi Jessica,
Thanks so much for being there!
In September I acquired a 4-year-old Mustang, which really means a 15'2 palomino gelding who was born wild and trained by prisoners at our state facility. He was the boss's favorite, who then sold him to a very nice couple with limited experience with horses. They rode him around a little, took good care of him physically, but didn't do any training.
When I got him he was ear shy, kicked when his tail was combed, and I was warned he could only be ridden in a bosal, that he "turned into a different horse" with a bit in his mouth. These problems have been easily overcome; the ear problem went away with normal handling, a few smacks of the rump with the currycomb cured the kicking, and there never was a problem with the bit.
I'm not sure if the problem I'm writing about is much of a problem, but I want to see what you think. Gulliver is a loveable horse, but he likes to crowd himself into my space by walking too close or being mouthy. I'm also working on this. When I lead him or lunge him, he keeps his ears back all the time. I've been concerned that he will bite when being led. He never has, altho he nipped at my foot once when I was riding him and he tries to suck my fingers into his mouth.
He doesn't seem scared when being led or lunged--he seems resentful. I'm not positive, but he may have started to back up and kick today when I was working him. I wonder if he is "spoiled" and used to getting his own way? The confusing thing is that last fall he would have 8 or 10 bowel movements when being ridden for a few hours, which I thought meant he was frightened. He doesn't do that anymore. He seems to go OK when being ridden--the difficulty is on the ground. Should I worry about this seemingly negative attitude if he doesn't actually bite? If so, what would you suggest?
Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to give you a good picture of Gulliver.
Thanks,
Gale
I think that what you have is a horse that is much more comfortable with you than he was with his previous owners. The multiple bowel movements were probably because of nervousness, which is obviously no longer a problem under saddle. You've also managed to lose the "problems" that his previous owners warned you about: he's not ear-shy, he doesn't kick, and he doesn't fuss about his bit. Those problems were almost certainly created by his previous handling, and now that he is getting better and more consistent handling under saddle and during grooming, the problems are gone. You've done well.
The pushiness you're experiencing, and the "ears back" nasty face, go together -- they're signs of aggressive behaviour, of the horse announcing that he guesses HE's in charge. This, too, is almost certainly the result of his previous handling. You say that he was owned and ridden by people who were kind and inexperienced -- I'm not surprised. They may not have made any effort to train Gulliver, but they trained him -- and he trained them, too. People who interact with horses on a regular basis DO train the horses (and sometimes they are trained BY the horses); the process of training is taking place even if the humans aren't consciously aware of it.
Gulliver has learned a lot about humans and what they expect from him. Now it's time for him to learn about his new human -- YOU -- and what YOU expect from him.
I've worked with quite a few mustangs, and all of them were clever horses and fast learners, extremely responsive to body language and verbal cues. Gulliver sounds as though he fits that mold too.
I suggest that you start him from the ground up, just as you would a brand-new colt right off the range. He needs to learn to stand quietly while you halter him, and to move quietly at your shoulder when you lead him, turning both ways, stopping, starting, and backing when you ask, paying attention to your signals, and maintaining a respectful distance (not pulling away OR trying to climb into your pocket).
If you lead him correctly, he won't have much opportunity to bite. For one thing, he'll be busy doing what you ask him to do and maintaining his position at your side. For another, one of your hands will be holding the lead shank six inches below his jaw, and your other hand will be holding the rest of the lead shank in front of your hip -- and neither hand is in a position to be nipped.
I have several suggestions for you -- you may find that your circumstances will make one better than the others, so feel free to play "mix-and-match" with them. ;-)
1) basic manners Culliver needs to learn -- or re-learn -- his baby skills: tanding, leading, turning, stopping, standing, backing, walking and trotting with you on a short leading rein with no tension. Use treats if you want; if he's in the habit of mugging you for treats, DON'T use them. Work him from both sides, and carry a short whip in whichever hand is holding the loose end of the leadrope. Carry the whip horizontally across your body, with the butt end extending a little past your body, toward his shoulder. Then, allow him to meet it with a bump whenever he crowds you.
You can't do exactly what another, more dominant horse would do if Gulliver got too close in the herd: the other horse would snake its neck, put its ears back, and make a rude face, and Gulliver would back off to a more respectful distance. If he DIDN'T back off (challenge), the other horse would snap teeth at him (if very patient) and nip him sharply in the shoulder or neck (if less patient). You can't do this, because you have the wrong shape of neck and head, and the wrong mouth/teeth configuration for this maneuver, so instead, you're going to use your voice and your body language.
Make yourself large (deep breath, expand your chest, move your arms a little away from your sides), lean toward him slightly, and make a horrid, loud, "wrong answer" buzzer sound -- I promise it will get his attention and he'll know you're displeased, and he won't confuse it with any other cue, command, or sound. ;-) Allow him to bump into the butt end of the whip -- and keep going. As soon as he shifts his position and acts like a polite horse-citizen, praise him. The ears will come forward, at least for a moment. ;-) He needs to know exactly what's okay, acceptable, correct, and suitable -- and he needs to know what isn't. Right now, he's not sure where he stands, and so he's not secure.
In a natural herd, the secure, dominant horse is in charge, and there's no fuss about it. The secure, NON-dominant, horse will step back, back off, show a submissive posture, and generally make it his business to stay out of the way of more dominant horses. It's the insecure horses of shifting rank that get in trouble -- the kicking and biting and squealing, and the scars and missing hair, are the province of the middle-rank horses, the ones that are constantly squabbling over precedence and taking pieces out of each other to determine which is #14 and which is #15 in a twenty-horse herd. Gulliver will be much more at ease when he knows that you are permanently installed as #1, and that he doesn't need to challenge you at all. ;-)
2) round pen work I find this to be really wonderful for horses off the range, for novice horse-handlers, and occasionally for horses like Gulliver who just need to be reminded of his place in this particular herd of two (hint: he's NOT the top horse). ;-) By keeping him in motion and moving in the direction you want, and allowing him to stop, turn, and come toward you ONLY when you permit him, you make your relative positions in the herd very clear. There are some dangers in this type of work, though: don't run the horse (keep him moving at a walk or a jog), and don't keep him moving until he's exhausted. In a short time, when you allow him to come toward you, he should come in politely and follow your movements.
Just remember that this is NOT because anything mystical or mysterious has happened between you, and that he is NOT coming up to you because he suddenly loves you passionately. You've simply informed him, in horse body language, that YOU are "boss hoss", that his safety as a herd-member lies with you, and that he needs to watch what you do and take his cues from you. Horses understand this very quickly -- it's based on their own instincts and on herd dynamics -- but humans often misinterpret it, and think "Oh good, now he loves me" or "Oh, good, now he's trained." He doesn't, and he isn't. What you've created is a situation in which your relative positions in the herd are now clear to both of you, and this puts YOU in a position to work with your horse effectively. The relationship between you, and the training of the horse, can now BEGIN.
3) clicker training Clicker training is much like round-pen work in that it's particularly useful for novice horse-handlers who don't yet have the experience, the instincts, the habits and the sense of timing that would allow them to make their wishes and preferences perfectly clear to the horse. But not everyone has access to a round pen, whereas clicker training is accessible to everyone. Clicker training is also FUN, and requires no special equipment, not even a special kind of clicker. The lid from a jar of baby food makes a very satisfying click-sound when you flex it. ;-) Alexandra Kurland has written a very enjoyable and informative book on the subject. You'll find information about the book, and about clicker training, at her website:
http://www.crisny.org/users/kurlanda/
Clicker training is quite simple: the horse quickly learns to understand that the clicker sound means praise. By using the clicker at the moment when the horse is exhibiting the particular behaviour the handler wants to reward, the handler can teach the horse clearly and quickly. IMO, the main lesson works in the opposite direction: the handler learns to respond to and reward any hint of desired behaviour in the horse. Clicker training, like round-pen work, can make the handler a better handler. ;-)
Try any or all of these, depending on your circumstances and situation, take your time, and have fun with your horse! The "ears back" problem should disappear over time, perhaps a very short time. ;-)
Jessica
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